Understanding suede in shoes

Understanding Suede as a Material

Suede is a type of leather made from the underside of an animal hide, which gives it its soft, velvety feel. Unlike smooth leather, suede has a nap—tiny raised fibres that create its signature texture. This nap is what makes suede look and feel luxurious, but it also means it reacts differently to touch, light, cleaning, and general wear.

Colour and Texture

  • The colour of suede is never completely flat or uniform. Because of the nap, brushing the material in one direction will make it look lighter, while brushing it the other way will make it look darker. This is completely normal and one of suede’s natural characteristics.

  • Different processes in tanning and dyeing can also affect how suede takes colour. That’s why two suede shoes in the same shade may not look identical—they may have slight variations in tone.

  • Over time, exposure to sunlight, rain, dirt, and even regular cleaning can gradually change the way suede looks. The colour may deepen in some areas or lighten in others, depending on how the nap is lying or how much wear the shoe has had.

Changes with Use

  • Because of its texture, suede is more responsive to touch than other leathers. A simple brush with your hand or a suede brush can alter its appearance.

  • As you wear suede shoes, the nap will flatten in some places and rise in others, creating natural shading and patterns unique to your pair.

  • Dirt and cleaning solutions can also shift the nap slightly, which may make the colour look different afterwards. This doesn’t mean the suede is damaged—it’s simply part of the character of the material.

    The Temptation to “Correct” the Colour
    It’s natural to want your suede to always look the same shade you first bought it, or like a photo you’ve seen. But in reality, it’s very difficult to return suede to an exact original colour or a perfectly even finish. Suede is a living material—it shifts and reacts to use. Trying to make it “perfect” often causes more harm than good.

    Important Cleaning Advice
    Because suede is delicate, using the wrong products can cause permanent damage:

    • Avoid household stain removers like Oxi, Vanish, or similar products. These contain peroxides that can bleach or discolour suede, leaving light patches that cannot be reversed.

    • Avoid baking soda or bicarbonate of soda, despite what some online guides suggest. These substances can react with the suede, making the surface slimy, sticky, or even hard once dried. In some cases, they also cause yellow staining. Once this happens, it’s very difficult to bring the nap back to its soft, velvety state.

    • Off the shelf "suede renovator" like the ones available in supermarkets. They sometimes contain aerosols and dyes that "restore" colours. Be careful to read the contents of these before applying directly to shoes. Its very difficult to remove these shoe dyes once applied.

    The Nature of Suede
    Suede is meant to change with time and wear. The colour may deepen, fade slightly, or show natural shading from where the nap has been brushed or flattened. This isn’t a flaw—it’s what gives suede its unique, lived-in beauty. The variations make each pair individual.

Suede is a living material, its important to remember that it is basically animal skin. I take the approach of treating it as skin; (you wouldn't over scrub or add harsh chemicals to your skin). Contrary to popular belief suede is very easy to care for and wants for very little in terms of products. A soft dry brush will help with a lot of surface level dust and our upcoming cleaning formula will do the heavy lifting for tougher stains. 

Keep checking back for our cleaning formula release. 




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